Sushi 88

FOOD

Sushi 88 builds its unlimited meal around nigiri and a substantial range of house rolls, with enough hot food to make the table more varied than an uninterrupted succession of sushi. Plain fish over rice, shrimp-tempura fillings, torched toppings and baked rolls all have a place here. The selection lets a meal stay relatively simple or grow richer, spicier and more elaborate as the orders accumulate.

Nigiri is the clearest starting point. Salmon, tuna, yellowtail and albacore offer individual pieces that can be interspersed with larger rolls. Mackerel, squid, octopus and surf clam broaden the choices beyond the familiar salmon-and-tuna pairing; shrimp, eel and tamago add cooked alternatives. Garlic tuna and Cajun albacore introduce seasoning without requiring the full combination of fillings, toppings and sauces that comes with a house roll.

The namesake 88 Roll makes that fuller style easy to understand: shrimp tempura and crab meat inside, assorted fish and avocado outside, finished with spicy mayonnaise, garlic ponzu and scallions. Crisp shrimp, rice and soft toppings occupy the same bite. The Rainbow Roll offers a more restrained arrangement of crab and cucumber beneath assorted fish and avocado, while Salmon Lover layers salmon over a spicy-salmon filling with thin slices of lemon.

Torched fish and fried onion give several rolls a different appearance and texture. The 911 Roll puts torched salmon over spicy crab and avocado, with garlic ponzu and spicy mayonnaise beneath its onion topping. Golden Knights combines shrimp tempura and crab with Cajun albacore and fried onion. These are substantial compositions to share among AYCE companions, especially when the table also wants to leave room for individual pieces of sushi and warm appetizers.

The cooked rolls extend that range further. Dragon pairs shrimp tempura, crab and cucumber with eel and avocado. Sakura covers crab and avocado with baked salmon, while Volcano adds scallops and creamy sauces to a shrimp-tempura filling. Las Vegas is deep-fried, with spicy salmon, cream cheese and jalapeño inside. Ordering a baked or fried roll alongside nigiri brings a pronounced difference in temperature and richness to the same meal.

Dinner’s special selections deserve separate attention. Sweet shrimp, uni, an oyster served raw or grilled, jalapeño yellowtail and beef tataki belong to a group limited to one order per person. Salmon kama and hamachi kama, the collars of salmon and yellowtail, require checking availability with the server. The cucumber-wrapped Samurai Roll gathers tuna, salmon, yellowtail, crab and avocado into a preparation without the usual rice filling. These extras give dinner a broader seafood offering.

Away from sushi, calamari and shrimp tempura provide battered seafood, while gyoza, chicken karaage and agedashi tofu bring dumplings, fried chicken and soft tofu to the table. Baked green mussels and baked scallops carry the creamy side of the menu into small hot dishes. Chicken and pork yakitori supply skewered meat; steak skewers are a dinner option. Miso soup, cucumber salad and seaweed salad offer smaller accompaniments between the fuller plates.

Dessert is a modest finish within the AYCE program, with a one-order limit. Ice cream, mochi ice cream and fried banana give the last choice a different texture from everything preceding it. The banana extends the meal’s fried-food thread into something sweet; mochi gives a softer, chilled ending after the rolls and hot dishes.