Andhra Cafe Troy

FOOD

Andhra Cafe’s weekend buffet brings together the cooking that makes South Indian breakfast distinctive. Rice and lentils appear in several forms, with steaming, frying and griddling producing markedly different dishes from related ingredients. Curries and chutneys are integral to the meal rather than incidental condiments. Andhra chicken curry also appears among the sides, alongside a predominantly vegetarian selection of breakfast staples.

Plain dosa is served freshly prepared. The thin crepe is traditionally made from a fermented rice-and-lentil batter, giving it a light tang that works well with chutneys. A plain dosa leaves the accompaniments to supply much of the variation, from peanut or coconut chutney to sambar. This freshly prepared breakfast offering is separate from the café’s capped evening dosa promotion.

Idli and vada make a familiar breakfast partnership. Soft, steamed idli are generally made from fermented rice-and-lentil batter and readily absorb a little sambar. Vada supplies a fried savory preparation alongside them. The contrast between the steamed cakes and fried fritters is an important part of the combination, with chutneys providing another layer of flavor.

Pongal brings rice and lentils together in a soft, spoonable preparation. It is a substantial cooked dish rather than another bread or fritter, giving breakfast a different consistency from the dosa, idli and vada. Tomato bath is another named choice in the spread, adding a tomato-based preparation alongside the other savory foods.

Puri supplies puffed, fried bread. Its delicate shell can be torn into pieces for scooping curry, offering a different style of fried preparation from vada. Andhra chicken curry gives meat eaters a savory accompaniment within the breakfast selection. Puri and curry also make a substantial combination for diners visiting toward the later end of the weekend service.

Sambar is the South Indian lentil-and-vegetable stew accompanying the meal. Traditionally, tamarind contributes a tangy note to the lentils and vegetables. Its relatively loose consistency suits the idli particularly well, moistening the steamed cakes without turning the accompaniment into a thick coating. It can be enjoyed with several breakfast dishes or by the spoonful as a stew.

Peanut, coconut and Bombay chutney provide three distinct accompaniments. Peanut chutney brings a nut-based savory option, while coconut offers another familiar South Indian preparation. Bombay chutney is less obvious from its name: traditionally, it is cooked and thickened with besan, or gram flour, giving it a consistency closer to a light gravy than a ground chutney. It is commonly paired with puri, idli and dosa. The assortment makes the accompaniments a meaningful part of the breakfast rather than a single sauce served with everything.

A sweet rounds out the selection, though the buffet flyer does not name a particular preparation. Masala chai is also offered, bringing spiced tea into the meal. Together, the sweet and tea provide a finish after the savory breakfast dishes.