Ling’s Buffet

FOOD

Ling’s hot-food counters offer bourbon chicken, General chicken and chicken on a stick, giving the Chinese side of the buffet a familiar starting point. These names belong to the Chinese-American buffet tradition: bourbon chicken is generally associated with a sweet-savory glaze, while General-style chicken is known for coated pieces served with sauce. Chicken on a stick offers the straightforward appeal of skewered pieces alongside those dishes.

Egg-drop soup carries that familiar character into a bowl. The dish takes its name from the fine ribbons of egg formed as beaten egg meets hot broth, giving it a softer texture than the fried and sauced foods nearby. It is a modest part of a Chinese buffet, but an important one for people who enjoy soup with their meal. Its fine strands of egg are quite different from a thicker soup or a plate of stir-fried food.

The sushi counter is another part of Ling’s identity, and cooked sushi has been included in the selection. Sushi brings seasoned rice and assembled pieces into a meal otherwise dominated by hot dishes; it does not have to mean a dinner devoted to raw fish. Cooked rolls have their own appeal, especially for a group with different levels of enthusiasm for sashimi. Here, sushi sits within the broader Chinese buffet experience, so it can be a substantial part of dinner without becoming the only thing on the table.

Crab rangoon is worth remembering among the appetizers. In its familiar Chinese-American form, it is a filled wonton parcel whose appeal comes from the contrast between the fried wrapper and the softer cream cheese filling. That is a different kind of bite from either a sushi roll or a piece of sauced chicken. Crab rangoon is one of the familiar pleasures of a Chinese buffet, and Ling’s is a place to keep it in mind alongside the bigger dishes.

The seafood selection changes, with boiled shrimp, crawfish and baked crabmeat among Ling’s repertoire. Those names cover boiled shellfish alongside a prepared baked dish. Mushrooms, broccoli and string beans have accompanied the seafood. Mushrooms bring an earthy element alongside the green vegetables. Together they give this part of the buffet enough interest to make a shellfish-and-vegetable meal, while still leaving room for the Chinese classics that define the restaurant.

Fruit and pudding offer a simple sweet finish, with other desserts varying across the selection. The appeal is familiar and uncomplicated: fruit alongside a softer, spoonable dessert after the chicken, sushi and seafood. There is a place for a modest ending to a generous buffet meal, and these choices fit the casual character of Ling’s.