Sea-San Sushi Bar

FOOD

The Djo selection deserves the longest look on Sea-San’s all-you-can-eat menu. Salmon surrounds individual portions of rice, and the toppings give this family considerable range. Most come in four-piece orders, enough to explore a variation without committing to a long roll. Brie, gorgonzola, fruit jam and truffle preparations all get their turn here. Choosing a favorite may require a second round. Such burdens.

Start with the truffle-omelette Djo: torched salmon, egg, tobiko or masago, truffle oil and cream cheese. The omelette also has an appetizer version, so its place in the meal needn’t depend on a rice order. Brie Djo combines torched salmon with cream cheese, Brie and fleur de sel. Gorgonzola Djo takes a different cheese approach, using gorgonzola cream and honey alongside the salmon and cream cheese. The cheese gets a proper say in both.

Fruit and playful toppings broaden the Djo possibilities. Mango jam and passion-fruit jam give separate versions their identities; Doritos joins cream cheese on another. There is also a truffle-shimeji version with eel sauce and cream cheese, and a shrimp variation with torched salmon and breaded shrimp. Mushroom, fruit or a little chip mischief: the topping is where each version makes its case.

Sashimi supplies a more direct fish selection: Atlantic salmon, yellowfin tuna, white fish and octopus, in four-piece orders. Nigiri covers those selections and adds cooked shrimp. Salmon carpaccio brings a separate preparation, six pieces with ponzu, Dijon and ginger. Between these dishes, salmon can occupy several distinct places in dinner, from an unadorned sashimi order to a dressed appetizer. The Djo may be the conversation starter, but the sashimi selection deserves space on the table.

Among the appetizers, shrimp coxinha makes the Brazilian influence especially tangible, with breaded shrimp and cream cheese. Pork bao comes with spicy mayo and scallions, while pork gyoza is served with ponzu. Tigrado Balls combine shrimp, salmon and cream cheese with sweet chili. For a vegetable accompaniment, shimeji comes with soy and scallions; cucumber sunomono brings sesame and su dressing.

The rolls keep the combinations going. Mango uramaki brings together tempura shrimp, mango and eel sauce; Boss encloses shrimp tempura and cream cheese beneath a salmon exterior. A fried hot roll uses cooked salmon, panko and cream cheese, while Haru Hot uses a harumaki wrapper with rice, shrimp, cream cheese and eel sauce.

Hand rolls include spicy tuna, grilled salmon and crunchy tempura shrimp, alongside a vegetarian version with cucumber, carrot, avocado and scallions. Cucumber hossomaki offers another straightforward vegetable choice. There is room for a simpler order between the elaborate ones; the menu doesn’t require every piece to arrive wearing cheese.

Dessert continues the Japanese-Brazilian conversation. The banana roll offers Nutella or dulce de leche, and the cheese spring roll comes with guava jam. Brownie with vanilla ice cream and vanilla ice cream with chocolate topping complete the included sweet selection. Banana or guava makes a particularly apt final decision after all those salmon variations. Yes, dessert gets a vote too.